8 October 2018

XU ZHI SS19

XU ZHI SS19

If you regularly follow my Fashion Week coverage, you'll know I much prefer presentations to runway shows. There's typically a lot more freedom to move around the show space, take a closer look at the collection, and find the right angles to take a photograph. That is, after politely hinting to the other guests they should give my 50mm lens room to breathe. I do wonder where everybody else's photos go, besides a fleeting Instagram story - but let's set that discussion aside for another time.

XU ZHI SS19 sees the return of the fashion label's signature fringe detailing in a collection inspired by the American poet Emily Dickinson. However I must admit that having never read any of Dickinson's works, or even heard of her before I attended the presentation, I am probably unqualified to make a comparison. Call me uncultured, if you will; I simply preferred to study Philosophy & Ethics over English Literature at A-Level.

Of course, some amount of research wouldn't go amiss in this instance. A quick scan of the internet mentions her "penchant for white clothing", which is very much evident throughout the XU ZHI collection. Many of her poems also concern flowers and gardens, again seen in the collection by way of delicate floral patterns.

Origins aside, the collection is elegant by its own account, comprising structured suits and flapper-esque evening gowns. Among my favourite pieces are a sheer shirt with oversized collar and large floral embroidery, and a strapless red dress with a sweeping skirt, which is clearly the centrepiece of the collection. The numerous looks were complemented by gold and silver earrings by Los Angeles-based jewellery designer Annie Costello Brown.

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